A Dress of the Times
Hi,
I know, it's been a minute, but I'm back... :) at least for this very minute, inspired by a recent project I made and just want to flesh out for all the interwebs to digest.
I love taking classes, learning and feeling like I'm growing. So many many moons ago when I was still living in the city (NY City) I decided to take a pattern making class at FIT, so I could expel all the ideas in my head and turn them into actual real life garments- that I could wear on my body. I was tired of having them floating around my head and it seemed the only way they were going to come out was if I started physically manifesting them. So I looked into taking a pattern making class, but first I had to take a prerequisite sewing class. So I took the sewing class even though I already knew how to sew and then I took a pattern making for dog garments class because it was summer term by the time I was done with my sewing class and that's all they were offering and theeeeen I took a real- for humans- pattern drafting class, and then long story short, I didn't stop taking classes until I had somehow taken all the classes in a Pattern Making certificate program and a Draping Techniques certificate program. It was over many many years, but somehow they all flashed by in the blink of an eye and I rarely found myself with time to apply all the lessons I was learning to just projects for myself. Ie, not projects for various assignments.
I would have thought when all was said and done I would find myself, getting to all the projects I had been dreaming up that started all this, but as life would have it, that wasn't the case. We all know that thinking up a creation is much easier and faster (and less wasteful) than sewing something in real life, so sometimes, even though I often spend the majority of my day dreaming about all the things I can drape, draft and sew, actually doing it might require a little self-inflicted kick in the butt, especially if it's nice outside, or something really binge worthy has dropped on Netflix. Lol. You get the point. (Not to get off topic but this is also a large reason I like to sign up for pattern testing, it gives me so there's no endless amount of time to waffle about deciding and re-deciding and getting distracted and reassessing.) So anyways, after giving myself a few weekends off following the final class of my final class for the draping certificate program I decided, I was going to drape something for myself, dang it.
And so I did. I took some coveted rayon I had had in my stash and set out to drape my dream Free People -esque Bohemian, short frilly fun beach-y sundress... and this is the love child that came out of my hands and the fabric. It's not anything like what I was initially going for, but I love it. It is definitely reminiscent of a very popular vogue pattern from a couple years ago, one that I didn't particularly like, but I love this dress. Not to get all emotional hoo-ha on you guys, but like just about everyone domestically and internationally, the past couple months have been challenging. COVID swept through my old beloved neighborhood in Queens, like a tornado targeting the elderly and disadvantaged immigrant population (and of course the world as well, but this my experience from my perspective). Then police brutality was at the center of the media aftermath, which led me to a lot of self reflection (not a bad thing). How much do I naively benefit from my white-enoughness and what can I do to help? And at the least of anyone else's concerns and something I hate to even mention because I know how obnoxious it sounds to complain about work and new opportunities at a time when so many have lost employment or been furloughed, but I started a new job literally 3/30 and have not felt so isolated and aimless at my employment since my first four months of Peace Corp volunteer-hood back in 2007. While I feel blessed to be deemed non-essential and thus able to work from home, it is not easy to uproot and start a new job literally having never met anyone, and missing out on those human micro interactions that help you piece together the big picture. Annnnnyways, again I don't mean for this to become my complaining playground and I certainly don't want you to feel like I am asking for any sort of support or comfort-because I'm not, but as feelings often do, I feel like they somehow seeped into my life and took over what was supposed to be a fun, casual sundress.
So to me this dress is beautiful, but it's also sad and chaotic and that's the lens I view it from. It's weird to think an article of clothing can serve as a journal entry of sorts but that's almost exactly how this feels.
From a non-emotional standpoint, it's an empire (umpire?) waist dress, that dips down toward the sides creating a literal deep frown mirrored in the sleeves that follow that same line. I put one pleat over the bust on either side and one deep pleat on either side of the back waist as well, which creates a crease in the fabric that travels from my bust over my shoulder and then disappears into the back waist seam. I couldn't keep the sleeves from wanting to just slide of the tips of my shoulders without some sort of support (understandable for a backless dress with such a plunging neckline), so I added a piece of cotton twill tape from a large role I purchased- when I was batch sewing masks in a fit of fear and uncertainty- attaching one shoulder to the other at my high back. Everything is draped on the bias to allow the dress to mold to me as I wear it, and I left the skirt long, but asymmetrical, coming to random points almost chaotically. I threw in an exposed zipper at my center back to bridge the difference between my waist and hip measurements. I would have preferred an invisible zip, but that's what I had in my stash.
I made light of the fact that this dress actually turned out a bit similar to a very popular vogue dress of a couple years ago, but in reality, I think I've made a pretty unique dress and I'm actually quite proud of myself. It's beautiful, functional, comfortable and fits me well. Also when I sewed it up and put it on it looked just like it did on my dressform. I know what you're thinking-that's what's supposed to happen, well...it never ceases to amaze me when things work out as planned.
Obviously since I draped this myself, I also had to come up with the construction on my own. Everything was french seamed except for the skirt and sleeve hems of course and before seaming the waist I encased the center front and center back in bias tape made out of the same rayon dress fabric, so there wouldn't be any raw edges where there was no top to encase the bottom.
The one regret I have with this dress is I didn't take the time to put the drape to paper. There were definitely areas that could have been more perfectly true'd, but I draped the whole thing in my dress fabric and I knew that this wasn't going to be the kind of dress I would want to have multiples of in my closet, but for perfectionists sake, it would have been a nice exercise to go through. There's always that tug of war in my mind over being economical and environmentally friendly when I know that this is just for me, and not something for a job, or that will be mass produced.
Anyways, this was a long first post for a 'come back' post and it's been nice to flesh out all my thoughts on this make and life. Instagram is so convenient, but sometimes is nice to have your debrief properly reflect all the mental and physical work that went into your garment too, so I hope I'll do this more. I'm also grappling with if I should add a little more in-progress and how-to style posts, because I feel like I have so much to share after two whole certificate programs worth of knowledge. We shall see though... sometimes is hard to stop drop and selfie when you're engrossed in your work.
Hope to see you guys again soon,
Kten
I know, it's been a minute, but I'm back... :) at least for this very minute, inspired by a recent project I made and just want to flesh out for all the interwebs to digest.
I love taking classes, learning and feeling like I'm growing. So many many moons ago when I was still living in the city (NY City) I decided to take a pattern making class at FIT, so I could expel all the ideas in my head and turn them into actual real life garments- that I could wear on my body. I was tired of having them floating around my head and it seemed the only way they were going to come out was if I started physically manifesting them. So I looked into taking a pattern making class, but first I had to take a prerequisite sewing class. So I took the sewing class even though I already knew how to sew and then I took a pattern making for dog garments class because it was summer term by the time I was done with my sewing class and that's all they were offering and theeeeen I took a real- for humans- pattern drafting class, and then long story short, I didn't stop taking classes until I had somehow taken all the classes in a Pattern Making certificate program and a Draping Techniques certificate program. It was over many many years, but somehow they all flashed by in the blink of an eye and I rarely found myself with time to apply all the lessons I was learning to just projects for myself. Ie, not projects for various assignments.
I would have thought when all was said and done I would find myself, getting to all the projects I had been dreaming up that started all this, but as life would have it, that wasn't the case. We all know that thinking up a creation is much easier and faster (and less wasteful) than sewing something in real life, so sometimes, even though I often spend the majority of my day dreaming about all the things I can drape, draft and sew, actually doing it might require a little self-inflicted kick in the butt, especially if it's nice outside, or something really binge worthy has dropped on Netflix. Lol. You get the point. (Not to get off topic but this is also a large reason I like to sign up for pattern testing, it gives me so there's no endless amount of time to waffle about deciding and re-deciding and getting distracted and reassessing.) So anyways, after giving myself a few weekends off following the final class of my final class for the draping certificate program I decided, I was going to drape something for myself, dang it.
And so I did. I took some coveted rayon I had had in my stash and set out to drape my dream Free People -esque Bohemian, short frilly fun beach-y sundress... and this is the love child that came out of my hands and the fabric. It's not anything like what I was initially going for, but I love it. It is definitely reminiscent of a very popular vogue pattern from a couple years ago, one that I didn't particularly like, but I love this dress. Not to get all emotional hoo-ha on you guys, but like just about everyone domestically and internationally, the past couple months have been challenging. COVID swept through my old beloved neighborhood in Queens, like a tornado targeting the elderly and disadvantaged immigrant population (and of course the world as well, but this my experience from my perspective). Then police brutality was at the center of the media aftermath, which led me to a lot of self reflection (not a bad thing). How much do I naively benefit from my white-enoughness and what can I do to help? And at the least of anyone else's concerns and something I hate to even mention because I know how obnoxious it sounds to complain about work and new opportunities at a time when so many have lost employment or been furloughed, but I started a new job literally 3/30 and have not felt so isolated and aimless at my employment since my first four months of Peace Corp volunteer-hood back in 2007. While I feel blessed to be deemed non-essential and thus able to work from home, it is not easy to uproot and start a new job literally having never met anyone, and missing out on those human micro interactions that help you piece together the big picture. Annnnnyways, again I don't mean for this to become my complaining playground and I certainly don't want you to feel like I am asking for any sort of support or comfort-because I'm not, but as feelings often do, I feel like they somehow seeped into my life and took over what was supposed to be a fun, casual sundress.
So to me this dress is beautiful, but it's also sad and chaotic and that's the lens I view it from. It's weird to think an article of clothing can serve as a journal entry of sorts but that's almost exactly how this feels.
From a non-emotional standpoint, it's an empire (umpire?) waist dress, that dips down toward the sides creating a literal deep frown mirrored in the sleeves that follow that same line. I put one pleat over the bust on either side and one deep pleat on either side of the back waist as well, which creates a crease in the fabric that travels from my bust over my shoulder and then disappears into the back waist seam. I couldn't keep the sleeves from wanting to just slide of the tips of my shoulders without some sort of support (understandable for a backless dress with such a plunging neckline), so I added a piece of cotton twill tape from a large role I purchased- when I was batch sewing masks in a fit of fear and uncertainty- attaching one shoulder to the other at my high back. Everything is draped on the bias to allow the dress to mold to me as I wear it, and I left the skirt long, but asymmetrical, coming to random points almost chaotically. I threw in an exposed zipper at my center back to bridge the difference between my waist and hip measurements. I would have preferred an invisible zip, but that's what I had in my stash.
I made light of the fact that this dress actually turned out a bit similar to a very popular vogue dress of a couple years ago, but in reality, I think I've made a pretty unique dress and I'm actually quite proud of myself. It's beautiful, functional, comfortable and fits me well. Also when I sewed it up and put it on it looked just like it did on my dressform. I know what you're thinking-that's what's supposed to happen, well...it never ceases to amaze me when things work out as planned.
Obviously since I draped this myself, I also had to come up with the construction on my own. Everything was french seamed except for the skirt and sleeve hems of course and before seaming the waist I encased the center front and center back in bias tape made out of the same rayon dress fabric, so there wouldn't be any raw edges where there was no top to encase the bottom.
The one regret I have with this dress is I didn't take the time to put the drape to paper. There were definitely areas that could have been more perfectly true'd, but I draped the whole thing in my dress fabric and I knew that this wasn't going to be the kind of dress I would want to have multiples of in my closet, but for perfectionists sake, it would have been a nice exercise to go through. There's always that tug of war in my mind over being economical and environmentally friendly when I know that this is just for me, and not something for a job, or that will be mass produced.
Anyways, this was a long first post for a 'come back' post and it's been nice to flesh out all my thoughts on this make and life. Instagram is so convenient, but sometimes is nice to have your debrief properly reflect all the mental and physical work that went into your garment too, so I hope I'll do this more. I'm also grappling with if I should add a little more in-progress and how-to style posts, because I feel like I have so much to share after two whole certificate programs worth of knowledge. We shall see though... sometimes is hard to stop drop and selfie when you're engrossed in your work.
Hope to see you guys again soon,
Kten
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